I'm 5'2" and while I rarely have to adjust sleeve length (for the sleeves to hit the right part of my arm) I always have length issues with my torso. My bust is higher than the pattern is drafted, so the area where my bust is supposed to be is too low. This results in the fabric pooling above my bust with a fold from the bottom of my armscye. This happens with all non petite sized ready to wear clothes as well.
Full Disclosure: This first sew was too big and I should have sized down You won't get this much of a change if it fits this loose and you only make the petite adjustment. The fit on the muslin pictures has changed a lot in the 2 years since I sewed them (I've gained a bit of weight and become a bit more curvy on top), but the bunching above the bust and length of where my waist would still be problems.
When I first started sewing I didn't realize that it is important to make length adjustments before width or depth adjustments and I used to just pinch out this extra fabric. Now I know better and find that if I made a pattern by measurements it will fit as long as I get those measurements to line up with the right spots on my own body. I could try and make a petite adjustment to my patterns before sewing them, but since it messes with the armscye I usually try and sew a trial garment before making this adjustment. Plus the amount of change tends to vary by sleeve shape and drafting.
To verify that this will fix your fitting simply pin out a horizontal line of fabric across your body. This fixed the bust and where the waist hit on this pattern.
So, what now? You need to see how much you fabric is extra and remove that all the way around your pattern. For a Raglan it needs to come out of the sleeve at the same spot as you are removing it from the body.
Front pieces
When you remove length you run into trouble with the pattern pieces edges not lining up any more you need to true them. To get the right shape for the front piece I took my French curve and matched the original curve that the pattern was drafted to have.
Back Pieces
Sleeves
New finished Raglans.
Full Disclosure: This first sew was too big and I should have sized down You won't get this much of a change if it fits this loose and you only make the petite adjustment. The fit on the muslin pictures has changed a lot in the 2 years since I sewed them (I've gained a bit of weight and become a bit more curvy on top), but the bunching above the bust and length of where my waist would still be problems.
 |
| The fabric is pushed up trying to get the bust width at my bust. |
When I first started sewing I didn't realize that it is important to make length adjustments before width or depth adjustments and I used to just pinch out this extra fabric. Now I know better and find that if I made a pattern by measurements it will fit as long as I get those measurements to line up with the right spots on my own body. I could try and make a petite adjustment to my patterns before sewing them, but since it messes with the armscye I usually try and sew a trial garment before making this adjustment. Plus the amount of change tends to vary by sleeve shape and drafting.
To verify that this will fix your fitting simply pin out a horizontal line of fabric across your body. This fixed the bust and where the waist hit on this pattern.
So, what now? You need to see how much you fabric is extra and remove that all the way around your pattern. For a Raglan it needs to come out of the sleeve at the same spot as you are removing it from the body.
Front pieces
When you remove length you run into trouble with the pattern pieces edges not lining up any more you need to true them. To get the right shape for the front piece I took my French curve and matched the original curve that the pattern was drafted to have.
Back Pieces
Sleeves
New finished Raglans.
 |
| Sleeves and neck binding are Coton Lycra body is Rayon Spandex |
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| Sleeves are Rayon Spandex Body is Art Gallery Cotton Lycra |
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